> A TRIP TO STOCKHOLM

Stockholm, Sweden
15 - 18 February 2017

Stockholm - spread across 14 islands, this ultra-hip City has so much to offer. Trend-setting design, inventive cuisine, unbeatable museums, great shopping, pretty parks and loads of atmosphere... just ensure you pack good walking shoes, you won't want to miss an inch!

Tuesday 14th February - We travel up to London late afternoon due to our early flight on Wednesday. A hotel on Ealing Broadway is closer to Heathrow and makes for a less hectic start to our break.

Wednesday 15th - a pleasant February morning as we take a stroll to Ealing South tube to catch the train to Heathrow Terminal 5. We take off at 11:15 for the 2 hour flight to Stockhom, Arlanda. Great flight. We catch a bus from Arlanda into Stockholm Central and walk 20 mins to the Island of Skepps Holmen, this is where our hotel, The Hotel Skepps Holmen is situated. Once checked in and unpacked we head off to explore the old town. Situated behind the Kungliga Slottet (Royal Palace) on Gamla Stan, this collection of narrow interconnecting streets are atmospheric and full of bars, restaurants and quirky shops. We enjoy a couple of beers in a cafe in the square opposite the Nobel Museum before heading to the Ebenist restaurant in the same square. Dinner is amazing...

We share: Catch of the day... Cured White fish, dill, lime, micro-herbs, shallots, purple cress, chopped fennel. Baked Mushrooms in small pan with piece of bread, melted cheese, sweet shallots, onion, pickled mushrooms, sour cream, dill, fennel. Meatballs with mash and gravy, juniper berries and pickled cucumber. Roasted Jerusalem artichoke with small fried potato, fennel, very thin slice apple, cream, fried sweet onion.

Hotel Skepps Holmen

Niki de Saint Phalle at Moderna Museet

Ryan Trecartin at Moderna Museet 

Dave and view towards City

Thursday 16th - a chilly, dry morning in Stockholm. Breakfast is delicious at our hotel. Now off to explore the City. We retrace last nights footsteps through the old town as we make our way to the Central Station. Today we walk for hours... We take in the sights and find our bearings... with only a few diversions underground, the streets and environs of Stockholm get our full attention. Exploring takes us through the suburban summer gardens on the larger Island of Sodermalm, a haven and very pretty. The historic streets of the Katarina-Sofia district twist and turn around dark rocky outcrops. Views looking north towards the City from the vantage points along the water are spectacular. Later in the afternoon we enjoy a browse around a couple of the many interior design shops, this city is seriously stylish and the prices reflect the high production values. Time for a bit of culture... Many of the museums here are free, and one of the popular smaller museums is the Hallwylska Museet. Hallwyl House at No 4 Hamngatan was built between 1893-98 to designs by Isak Gustaf Clason, Sweden´s most renowned architect at the time. Step back to the 1900's as you enter this beautiful space, it's period interiors and collection of artefact's, paintings and pottery are charming. Now... It's time to track down one of the government run alcohol super stores, the System Bolaget. We purchase some drinks for the eve and pick up snacks from the local Coop as we make our way back to the hotel. What a day, we have covered over 11 miles on foot... Taken in many wonderful sights and feel like we have started to understand the layout and culture of this City.

Alex and view from Katarina-Sofia

Frost on the ice - Gustaf Fjaestad - Thielska

 

Friday 17th - a sunny cold morning in Stockholm. After breakfast we head out into the chilly air and walk towards the Moderna Museet,  this modern art gallery is on Gamla Stan and well worth a visit. The collection includes Dali, Miro, all the pop greats and a very good selection of local Artists. We enjoy a collection of video installations on the lower level, fun and a good way to loose a few minutes. A coffee break in the cafe sets us up for our next adventure before heading towards the water front to catch a ferry over to the larger green Island known as Djurgården. 5 minuets afloat and we are at the pier, ready to explore another Island. This is the holiday retreat, the playground of the City and home to many museums and galleries. A short tram ride and we are at the first Gallery on our list. Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde is noted to be the 'most beautiful Gallery in Sweden'... True, but unfortunately a portion of this palace is closed for a rehang... But, we do enjoy beautiful works by the owner, Prince Eugen. The seasonal flower arrangements fill the rooms with the first perfume of Spring. There is also a temporary exhibition of work by Miro on loan from the foundation Miro in Barcelona. After our visit we scoff sandwiches in the sunshine before taking a very pleasant walk along the water front to the Thielska Galleriet. The shore is lined with beautiful villas and grand houses, this is obviously the hideaway for the rich and famous. The Thielska is stunning. Beautiful rooms are filled with the most wonderful paintings by Swedish landscape artists. The building was designed by Ferdinand Boberg specifically to house banker and art patron Ernest Thiel’s magnificent art collection and was completed in 1907. The Gallery also served as Ernest Thiel's home from 1907 to 1924 and has remained largely unaltered ever since. The work of Eugène Jansson, Bruno Liljefors and Gustaf Fjaestad. Other artists are present in the collection including Munch, Gauguin, and Toulouse-Lautrec. We stay a while longer in this haven of art and tranquillity to enjoy tea and cake in the sun drenched parlor before wrapping up to continue our wander around the Island. Ice is still on the water ways and lakes as the path leads us back to the mainland. As the sun sets, the temperature drops, we board a bus that takes us to the City centre where we stock up on snacks before heading back to the old town for one last wander. The warm glow of the candle light from the Cultur Bar beckons... we enter and enjoy a couple of beers. Dave perches on a stool behind the DJ, he curates his vinyl collection for the pleasure of our ears, and those of the local crowd. We round off our last evening back at the hotel with some snacks and drinks in our room... Night night!

Saturday 18th - a frosty bright day as we check out of our hotel pre-breakfast. A brisk walk through the City and we are at the central bus station awaiting our transfer to the airport. We scrimp together enough money for a coffee and share a panini before boarding our 10:10 flight to London Heathrow. A smooth cruise over land and sea before we land in London.

This has been a wonderful visit to Sweden. Stockholm is a vibrant working City with guts and spirit. It's beautiful and interesting... Sturdy and straightforward, just like the locals. It's expensive but you can fill a day with plenty of exciting moments that are free... Walk the City as much as you can, this will help you to get your bearings and you will get under the skin of the City much quicker. Island hoping is easy with the network of trams, buses, and ferries... Get a travel card for a more relaxed and cost effective experience.

10 out of 10.